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Tolerant Islam under attack

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Every Thursday, as the drums would roll, the colourful devotees would crowd, the rose petals would float, the excited children would hop, the cars would swerve, the buses would gather, the food would overflow, the lights would glow, and I would wonder anew at the hospitability and attraction of the Abdullah Shah Ghazi mazaar. Abdullah Shah Ghazi is said to have arrived from Iraq in the eighth century to preach the brand of tolerant Islam that is still followed by the majority of people here. Many people claim to have been granted their wishes here. Apart from the faithful, there are many who flock the shrine for langar (free food) or to drink from the miraculous holy waters which, they believe, cures ailments. The shrine has remained a centre of attraction for people belonging to different religions, sects and ethnicities. Looking at the pockets of humanity which crowded the mazaar and spilled over into it’s environs, it was clear that here there were none of the class divisions that bedevil our society. All were welcome at the saint’s abode... the destitute and the rich, the ill and the healthy, the young and the elderly, the careworn and the careless, the morose and the ecstatic. Legend has it that Karachi did not suffer a tropical disaster in a thousand years because of the shrine’s blessing, because Abdullah Shah possessed the power to control sea waters. Devotees claim that the presence of this mazaar has protected Karachi from a number of tropical disasters, including the recent Cyclone Phet and the 2006 sea-storm heading from Gujarat. But the shrine could not protect itself from all who it has been welcoming with open arms and a big heart for so long. Amongst the swarm of humanity milling around it this Thursday, there were two young men who dealt it the most severe blow it has ever suffered in it’s 1400 year old history. Undeterred by the presence of a large number of women and children and the message of mysticism and peace pervading the air, they chose to kill, maim and destroy. The attack came three months after militants struck at Data Ganj Baksh’s shrine in Lahore. Abdullah Shah Ghazi’s shrine is as significant to Karachi as Hazrat Data Ganj Baksh’s shrine is to Lahore. As horrifying as the Data Ganj Baksh attack was, this time the news hit me right in the solar plexus. Memories come fast and furious. An intrepid friend and I getting our hands read, in the glow of a lantern, by a grave palmist squatting on the pavement next to the shrine.  Jaywalking devotees irritating me into honking on Thurdays while trying to get home after a long day at work. Avoiding looking directly at the drug addicts near the Mazaar who would sleep all day and come back to life as evening approached.  The eerie glow of the lights drawing my gaze again and again.  The nearby crescendo of music lulling me into a deep sleep. Visiting the Mazaar with my nervous mother to pray for my brother’s success as he was departing for college. Incense and flowers mixing with the sea air and pervading my senses as I took off my shoes to climb the interminable steps leading towards the saint’s resting place. The serene inner sanctum swarming with curious female devotees. The workers washing the dirt marks on the steps of the Mazaar, forcing us to side step the buckets of water. Now they must be washing the blood stains and body parts off those pristine steps. On TV, I can't recognise the darkened Mazaar with it's abandoned slippers, sandals and flowers. A screaming woman in sequins and red lipstick is carrying her inert daughter. Her frenzied screams  rent the air, but the girl does not stir. Three children are amongst the dead. I turn away from the thought that this devastated woman’s daughter is amongst the fatalities. Amidst the cacophony of the TV coverage, an image jumps out at me. Bloodied babes. Despite the blood staining their round foreheads and clinging to their curly locks, these traumatised toddlers are not crying.  Silent and clueless, their innocent and unflinching gaze sears my soul even as their panicked mother rushes them to hospital. The TV anchors and reporters are babbling away, police and rangers are milling about, people are sobbing, ministers are giving their usual statements, shrines are being sealed, bombers’ heads and limbs are being scrutinized, Tehreek-e-Taliban are proudly claiming responsibility for this butchery as if it is a badge of honour, theories are being put forth about how militants are striking at the very heart of Sufism and tolerance.... but it is the silence of these flower like children which resounds within me.



Laal: Fighting fundamentalism with Sufi thought

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Clad in black, the darwaish twirls and twirls on his bare feet, so enthralled, so totally immersed as if he was about to whirl himself to a parallel dimension. A child in rags stands nearby, eyeing him gleefully. His eyes shine: he wants to join in. A group of women gather around, clapping, singing, laughing, almost in a trance themselves. The shrine of their patron Saint lurks in the background: the perfect catharsis for the wretched, the refuge of the forsaken! Filmed not long before the bomb-blast at the Pakpattan shrine, Laal’s latest video “Fareeda” pays homage to the Sufi saint, Baba Fareed Gunjshakar. Put to music, his simple yet profound poetry is a delight. Hailed as the first known Punjabi poet, and father of the language, Baba Fareed is an iconic figure in the history of the subcontinent, and especially that of Punjab. He gave up life in Dehli to settle in the small town of Pakpattan and despite being well-versed in the official languages (Arabic and Persian) he went against the literary grain and chose to write in the vernacular.  His thought endeared him to Muslims and Hindus alike; it is no small feat that the scared scriptures of the Sikh faith include Baba Fareed’s poetry! A red shade of tolerance For Laal, a band from Lahore that has become popular for bringing revolutionary music to the forefront, this song was not only an attempt at rediscovering Baba Fareed’s heritage as a Punjabi poet and condemning the recent string of attacks on shrines and the loss of innocent lives, it also meant re-discovering a strain of Sufi thought which has a special significance for South Asia: a more progressive strain which, according to the band, promotes inclusivity, harmony and is perhaps less rigid and much more sensitive to women’s rights etc than the more austere or “fundamentalist” versions in vogue today. Good Muslims, bad Muslims, American agenda There seems to be a catch to this story though. Post 9/11, promotion of Sufism over what is considered the more “dangerous” aspects of Islam, seems to have become the official American imperialist policy. Everyone seems to be jumping on the Sufi bandwagon, without any understanding of the issue whatsoever. Countries like Morocco and Algeria are said to be fighting militant Islamic insurgencies with Sufism because the latter is "devoid of any political ambitions". A neat dichotomy is thereby fashioned, a dichotomy between the 'Good Muslim' who is modern, secular and supports US imperialist and interventionist policies versus the 'Bad Muslim' who is pre-modern and thereby resists such interventions. The inconvenient truth about Sufism In two recent articles published on various online blogs, Qalandar Bux Memon, editor of Naked Punch, problematised this fascination with Sufism. He points out that as experienced today by the majority of our population, Sufism is linked to a deeply hierarchical and exploitative system whereby descendants of the Sufis exert total social, economic and religious control over the poor masses. It has also developed fatalist and escapist tendencies, which ensure that people accept their fates and never question the status quo. Which of course perfectly suits the designs of the Empire as well as those of local elites! Not every Sufi is a saint Laal’s lead vocalist and guitarist, Taimur Rehman, who is also a Professor of Political Science at LUMS, agrees. He points out that what Laal is attempting to emphasise are the progressive aspects of Sufism, perhaps what Qalandar Bux Memon identifies as “true Sufism” i.e. the philosophy of the local saints like Baba Fareed themselves, as distinct from its present pro-elite and pro-imperialist manifestations. And this philosophy may contain ideas that undermine the edifice of imperialism and the “war on terror”: a call to arms against exploitation and occupation and in support of social justice and people’s rights over their lifeworlds. Such aspects of Sufism prescribe active rebellion against religious and economic tyranny alike. It is a far cry indeed from the apolitical and docile philosophy that the imperialist powers and its cronies are trying to promote. Laal’s video includes a dedication to the “plurality, diversity and all the colours of Islam”. Sufism as a whole may or may not be “better”, but perhaps that is the wrong question altogether, says Taimur Rehman. All colours of Islam should be respected, and the problem with “fundamentalism” is precisely that it denies this plurality and this respect for other traditions within or outside Islam. According to the band, there is also a dire need to preserve these shrines and the original thought of these saints as our scared cultural heritage, and their video is an attempt to bring this to the attention of mainstream media. Us versus us versus us The sort of collective amnesia we engage in is troubling to say the least. It takes a skewed view of history and defines it as fact, ignoring other, equally or perhaps way more legitimate narratives in the process. The history of South Asian Sufism as a revolutionary political and cultural force is exactly such a narrative.  The Empire’s cultivation and use of “fundamentalist Islam” against Communism thirty years ago precisely because exclusivist, violent and conservative ideas were useful then for its mission , and now of fatalist, escapist and apolitical Sufism against the same “fundamentalist Islam” because of its changed priorities is another such example. Our crucial task then is to snap out of this convenient feel good amnesia, and re-discover other narratives of what can only be called, other histories. In this process, we need to be careful not to fall into the Imperialist trap: the project of re-discovery needs to be done for the people, by the people and as a form of resistance to the exploitative status quo and in order to open up new spaces for religious, cultural and (most importantly) political maneuvering rather than at the behest of the Empire and the local elites which are simply out to preserve their own interests.


The importance of saving our sufi heritage

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The resting place of Baba Farid Ganjshakar at Pakpattan, which was attacked last month, became the fifth sufi shrine to be destroyed in the past few years. Security agencies say after the mass attacks on mosques, sufi shrines are now under threat as well. These assaults on our holy sites are slicing through our social fabric, and here’s why: People of Pakistan, especially in Sindh, have long been known as followers of sufism – the mystical interpretation of Islam – and shrines are symbols of their devotion. Destroying them is an outright attack on a system based on deep introspection, great kindness, a battle against the ego and devotion to God’s infinite love –characteristics our brutalised society needs to hold on to, not let go off. Sufism is centered around the idea of presence – bringing acute awareness and, therefore, gratitude to our everyday actions. Once a sufi has achieved this practice, he devotes himself to subduing his ego – the force that dominates most of our actions in everyday life. This helps his essential or divine self to rise up and seek its source. All of this is done with the utmost care for peace. As the sufi works to eliminate his ego, he automatically acquires a sense of serenity. And the slow chipping away of the ego-based self is an automatic prescription for non-conflict with those around him. In our war-ridden society, where bombings, gun battles and attacks have become everyday events that even children have begun to brush off as ordinary, this search for peace is precious. I feel that all our efforts, especially today, should be to preserve and spread our sufi tradition and heritage. As the Buddhist teacher Pema Chodron once said, “If we want there to be peace in the world, we have to be brave enough to soften what is rigid in our hearts, to find that soft spot and stay with it. We have to have that kind of courage and take that kind of responsibility. That’s the true practice of peace.”


The significance of the Karbala story

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The Islamic New Year has arrived, but instead of the celebration that we see in other religious traditions, there is mourning and reflection because of the martyrdom of Imam Hussain (RA). There is an exhaustive amount of literature on the history of this tragic event in the canons of Islamic thought across all the schools of thought, but it is not the historicity of the event itself which is of concern but the existential significance of it. Religious literalism can be best described as grasping for excruciating detail of the event, usually steeped in antiquity, whilst forgetting to draw from these events, stories and traditions their  rich moral meaning. Literalism ignores the latent ethical symbolism of religious events and ignores the spirit for the sake of the letter. The Karbala story The best account of Karbala, particularly in the South Asian context which pays attention to the influence of the event is Syed Akbar Hyder’s, Reliving Karbala Martyrdom in South Asian Memory. Hyder notes that richness of the Karbala story, a story born in tragedy, a symbol of resistance against tyranny and a beacon of hope for those who suffer injustice. It is quintessentially a story of epic struggle and has been a source nay a reservoir of inspiration for not just Muslims but non-Muslims as well. Notably Gandhi, an exponent of pacifist resistance cites the example of Hussain RA, when he says:

I learnt from Hussein how to achieve victory while being oppressed
The Karbala story has been employed for causes of political protest, struggle and spiritual devotion. Perhaps, it is the electric spirituality of Karbala which moves the hearts of men and brings innumerable tears to so many that is most captivating. Annemarie Schimmel a great scholar of Sufi poetry and philosophy wrote that:
The tendency to see Husayn as the model of martyrdom and bravery continues, of course, in the poetry written after Sana’i by Persian and Turkish mystics, and of special interest is one line in the Divan of ‘Attar (nr. 376) in which he calls the novice on the path to proceed and go towards the goal, addressing him: Be either a Husayn or a Mansur. That is, Husayn b. Mansur al-Hallaj, the arch-martyr of mystical Islam, who was cruelly executed in Baghdad in 922. He, like his namesake Husayn b. ‘Ali, becomes a model for the Sufi; he is the suffering lover, and in quite a number of Sufi poems his name appears alongside that of Husayn: both were enamoured by God, both sacrificed themselves on the Path of divine love, both are therefore the ideal lovers of God whom the pious should strive to emulate. Ghalib skillfully alludes to this combination in his tawhid qasida: God has kept the ecstatic lovers like Husayn, and Mansur in the place of gallows and rope, and cast the fighters for the faith, like Husayn and ‘Ali, in the place of swords and spears: in being martyrs they find eternal life and happiness and become witnesses to God’s mysterious power.
But Hyder’s work sheds light on the literary works of passion, spiritual excellence and political liberation by authors such as Iqbal who all owe their inspiration for their literary wonders to the events of nearly 1,400 years ago. Stretched across time and space, people from different walks of life have always come away attached with an intimate sense of meaning. From the works of the lyrically gifted such as the Sufi poets of old such as Emre or Rumi to the modern greats like Iqbal, profound artistic expressions of this event have made many reflect. From the broken threads of catastrophe, poets and writers have weaved narratives of hope and optimism, reaching out to people throughout the ages. Make no mistake, the narrative of Karbala is powerful and unlocks the most noble of human virtue. It is the elusive combination of justice and spirituality, the synthesis of the noble warrior and otherworldly saint, the heartbreaking tale of injustice and poignant narrative of faith which makes this particular event etched in the hearts and minds of countless millions. Such is the emotion that it overflows into public and communal displays of devotion, indeed this raw sense of mourning has been institutionalised into the religious fabric of Muslim societies, and although sectarianism has always been present within Islam, such events have usually been universal, appealing to peoples of all creeds. There is a transcendental resonance about this event. Mourning as a means of worship There is always something we can draw from the spiritual wisdom of Hussain RA, for instance this inspiring quote:
Some people worship God to gain His gifts; this is the worship of the merchants.  Some worship Him to avoid His punishment; this is the worship of the slaves.  Some worship Him solely to show gratitude towards Him; this is the worship of the free!
Some today have suggested new ways of expressing this devotion, for instance the Islamic Unity Society in the UK:
Its founder Dr Marwan Al-Dawoud said donating blood was a way for Muslims to show their devotion as well as saving lives...... What we're saying is that this is a time when we feel that Imam Hussein gave something of himself.  "Use that message and give blood because it's something that is good for society. "It's saving life at the end of the day and there is no greater gift from God."
And today when Muslim societies struggle for freedom and democracy against tyrannical monarchs, interfering general-dictators and overbearing and coercive clerical orthodoxies, the message we can take away is a message of liberty, both spiritually and physically. To rejoice in the freedom of God’s love and celebrate freedom from tyrants everywhere who only manipulate the Divine for self-gain, is the enduring moral of this event. This is just one way the life affirming message of that day of tragedy can be marked. The mourning of that day however has a deeper spiritual significance, and it should be on this aspect of a universal and emotional spirituality with a profound and animated conscience for justice, that should bring people of different creeds together rather than apart. A spirituality animated by the quest for justice is one which is universal and pluralistic and on this a platform for inter-religious pluralism should be built in a modern day Pakistan ravaged by sectarian division.

Music = vulgarity?

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Conservative elements have always spoken against music. I remember the introduction of music classes at Punjab University stirred up a storm among the Islami Jamiat Talaba (IJT). The IJT also threatened to “physically resist” music classes on campus. It was heart wrenching to see them marching hand in hand to condemn art. What would life be without music? It is a reminder of how things once were, an indication of how things are, and a view of where society is headed. Music is being successfully taught at some colleges including Kinnaird College, where I am one of the students studying Indian Classical Music. I sometimes wonder how it spreads vulgarity. There is a thin line between freedom and being offensive, and if the equilibrium is maintained than why worry? Music not only gives me a sense of being complete but also teaches me to believe in myself. It’s the food of the soul indeed. The level of ignorance shown by the conservative elements has always faltered the growth of performing arts in this part of the world. I remember being enthralled by a BBC Channel Four’s documentary, Sufi Soul: The Mystic Music of Islam. During this fascinating program, William Dalrymple talked to a traditional Islamic religious leader about their attitude to music. He asked why music was so frowned upon when the Islamic world had produced some of the most talented musicians in the world. The man half-smiled sadly and said that they were wrongdoers and would be punished. Perhaps the lasting power of Sufi music will drown out the less tolerant interpretations and visions of Islam. Some orientalist scholars believe that Sufism was essentially the result of Islam evolving in a more mystic direction. For example, Annemarie Schimmel proposes that Sufism in its early stages of development meant nothing but the internalisation of Islam. Louis Massignon states:

"It is from the Qur’an, constantly recited, meditated, and experienced, that Sufism proceeded, in its origin and its development." “Sufism’s dynamic and diverse musical traditions have made it accessible and meaningful to a wide audience within and beyond the Muslim world, as with mystical traditions in all religions, the pursuit of unification with the divine brings the rigorous demands of asceticism and contemplation, abandonment of materialism and of the self.”
I question the conservative claim that music spreads vulgarity. It’s high time to change these mindsets and think with reason. The walls of ignorance encircling us should be broken. Let the rays of enlightenment nourish the deprived souls.

Coke Studio is making a mockery out of our culture

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At the risk of sounding judgemental, let me state flat out that “Coke Studio” is the place where a revitalisation of folk culture is endeavoured by slaughtering it. A not-so-thoughtful cogitation, in this case, has led people to believe that through commercialism a win-win situation can be achieved to the benefit and amusement of all the stakeholders, i.e. the producers, the conglomerate and the MTV generation. The idea clicked. The “Coke Studio” fad is running amok. Social media is replete with ‘Naulakha Charkhas’ and ‘Jugni’. Rohail Hayat seems to have acquired the status of 'god of music'. Rambling on about the latest episode of “Coke Studio”, and the wonderful ‘stars’ is enough to make one an expert on contemporary music. Sufism is in the air. Meesha Shafi and Atif Aslam are new protagonists of Sufi thoughts that, till now, were terra incognita for the urban middle-class youth. Money is pouring in. Everyone - as was the plan - is getting their due share. However, what is being missed out, amidst this entire episode of exhilaration, is the culture itself. The soul of culture is being sucked out, and that too so quietly that no one seems to have noticed. The fact of the matter here is that it is not the culture itself that is being celebrated. It is being experimented with in a way that is uninspired and harmful. Many movements can be cited in the West that set an outright challenge to the then prevalent cultural discourse. The modernist streaks of literature and art did a lot to revive what had been lost during the age of enlightenment, i.e. religion and culture. Whereas, on the other hand, surrealist and Dadaist movements called out bourgeois culture by rejecting many popular trends. In post-modernist traditions, the lines between high and popular culture seem to be blurred. The genres of music are being experimented with by infusing the traits together. The point is, each and every upshot of the above cited instances imparted something enriched to society, by adding to the cultural and artistic traditions. This is in stark contrast to trivial experiments like “Coke Studio”. If we strictly stick to music only, the Qawali or Sama was the most popular genre of music. The great Amir Khusroo was the one who introduced this genre to the subcontinent, which would become so popular and widely celebrated that a large chunk, if not all, of poetry of popular Sufi poets were acknowledged through Qawali. Qawali is an indispensable part of popular shrine culture that has been attracting the masses for centuries in the Indian subcontinent. In Pakistan, these were the Sabri brothers, Aziz Mian, Farid Ayaz, Ustad Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan and many others who took it to new acme. The melody of a Qawali is the melody of the masses. So, in line with the collective cultural consciousness of the locals, Qawali is the only indigenous genre of the music that can enthral people, irrespective of their social status, caste, creed or religion. The process of industrialisation and urbanisation started during Ayub's era, but it was not until the end of Zia’s regime that urban pop music started emerging to fore. That was a response of the urban youth to severe curtailing and repression of cultural and social development of a once dynamic society. The 80’s and 90’s are hailed as the heydays of Pakistani pop music. This was a time when Junoon, Nazia Hassan, Vital Signs, Alamgir and Bunny held sway over popular music in Pakistan. The stage was all set for a vibrant pop music industry in the region. Then, owing to the underlying seeds of radicalism sowed over the years, it started to fall apart at the end of the last century. Pop stars opted to band themselves with religious organisations and some joined the conspiracy theorists’ bandwagon – the antithesis of art and music. Musharaf’s confused-to-the-core enlightened moderation proved to be the last nail in the coffin for, the once prospering industry, when the highly tortuous socio-political conditions started taking their toll. That’s where “Coke Studio” made its entrance. Meeting with the commercial needs of a rapidly expanding electronic media culture, folk culture was distastefully incorporated in the music vestiges and the outcome was a commercial success. The phenomenon, notwithstanding, cannot be accepted as some kind of a development by any standard of music and art. This is more of a distortion of ‘original’ than a revivification. The right way to go about it would be, utilising the rich folk music and poetry traditions, as a foundation in lieu of making a horrible blend out of it. A case-in-point in this regard is the highly ingenious work of Ismail Darbar and A R Rahman who have churned out enchanting numbers lately incorporating the folk traditions of the subcontinent. In a nutshell, you cannot make Justin Bieber sing ‘Kalaam of Bulleh Shah’ in Led Zeppelin style. By doing that you are making a fool out of all three. Read more by Suleman here, or follow him on Twitter @SlmnAkhtar  


Did qawwali die with Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan and the Sabri brothers?

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The melodious voice became clearer as I walked towards the shrine. And just as I started up the stairs separating the dust of the polluted world from the spiritual atmosphere of the place, the lyrics became discernible as well,

“Tajdar-e-Haram, O Nigah-e-Karam...” (King of the Haram, look upon us with mercy...)
As strong as commentary can ever be, this poetry has always inspired reverence in faulted souls. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="503"] Not more than a decade ago traditional qawwali was still thriving and the best place to listen to qawwalis was not a privately organised concert but these very publically hosted urs. Photo: Badar Chaudhary[/caption] And yet, something was amiss this time. Although not exactly a connoisseur myself, I was still able to tell that the singers trying to emulate the ‘Princes of Qawwals’ – the Sabri brothers – were amateurs who lacked the necessary schooling. A place that had been frequented by Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan while he was alive and then by his nephew, Rahat Fateh Ali Khan for many years since, had to make do with these local makeshift kinds who would most likely be delivering mail or undertaking similar jobs in the morning. [embed width="620"]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x150xyo_nusrat-fateh-ali-khan-sochta-hoon-ke-woh-kitne-masoom-they_music[/embed] Disappointment engulfed me as it had on multiple occasions before this also, followed by nostalgia setting in for the days not more than a decade ago when this genre was still thriving and the best place to listen to qawwalis was not a privately organised concert but these very publically hosted urs. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Crowd gathers at the shrine of Kalyam Shareef. Photo: Badar Chaudhary[/caption] Similar to the educational standards and the economy, the culture of the country has also become hostage to the quickly diffusing society, which espouses all that it can of western norms and Arab prejudices. That two such distinctive creeds are the cause behind the downfall for the conventional qawwali is surprising but such is the story of Pakistan. The modernists – holding on to the complexes of a colonised nation – have become disillusioned with their own music while the conservatives – deeming everything Arab as ‘Islamic’ – have embraced all that this culture has to offer. The movement towards a more literal interpretation of Islam and the contrasting globalisation which reeks of western values and principles have simultaneously chipped away at the identity and core values of Pakistan. Qawwali is also such a casualty. The transition from a rural to an urbanised society rendered a majority incapable of enjoying the simple pleasures of life. The pace of life quickened. Much like the shift from Test cricket to T20s and the reduction in the length of movies, the qawwalis were shortened to satiate the fluctuating tastes. This was followed by an influx of western rock and pop which slowly started pervading the market. And as it happened, in spite of the aesthetic appeal of the traditional qawwalis, with the exception of a few names, the genre could never achieve commercial success. And thus the metamorphoses began. The fusion in itself would not have been detrimental to the interests of the genre but the neglectful attitude that followed was. Thus, the ‘modern’ version of the qawwali was introduced which gelled together flawless voices with guitars and pianos to attract the majority. Understandably, it was an instant success. Trained musicians immediately embraced the change and began to produce music which was very different from their own. Slowly, these money-making ventures became the sole aspiration and hence, the descent of traditional qawwali commenced. [embed width="620"]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x14kept_nusrat-fateh-ali-khan-tum-ek-gorakh-dhanda-ho_music[/embed] Since this ‘modern’ music allowed for imperfections in the voice to be covered, along came untrained singers to take up the genre for monetary gains. Traditionalists who took up the cause had failed to address the fact that although people still listened to Gorakh Dhanda and Sochta Hoon Ke Woh Kitnay Masoom The by Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan even decades later, not many are aware of his efforts with Michael Brooks – such as IntoxicatedSweet Pain and Crest. https://soundcloud.com/qasim-m-dogar/ustad-nusrat-fateh-ali-khan-4 This should have served as a caveat to the changing times that despite the commercial success of such efforts, this novel music was ephemeral. [embed width="620"]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x15c8ju_intoxicated-nusrat-fateh-ali-khan-and-michael-brook-night-songs_music[/embed] But it did not. And if there were any hope alive owing to the few and far in-between who held onto the traditional qawwali for its association with Sufism and being a potent expression of love for God, it was to be dismissed by the precipitous growth of ‘religious’ scholars propagating the orthodox Arab interpretation of Islam. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="416"] Our culture has also become hostage to the quickly diffusing society, which espouses all that it can of western norms and Arab prejudices. Photo: Badar Chaudhary[/caption] A majority of hitherto uneducated and gullible souls were convinced beyond reparation that what they had been doing all their lives was strictly forbidden in the very religion that they yearned to serve. https://soundcloud.com/qasim-m-dogar/ustad-nusrat-fateh-ali-khan-1 This was the last nail in the coffin. It is thus, that the qawwals – well-trained in the art and associated with the traditional version of the genre – are diminishing by the day. In a country mired in a multitude of more serious problems, conventional qawwali is silently dying away. Incidentally there does exist a ministry of heritage. However, there is no commotion in the concerned quarters to make any efforts to salvage this age-old tradition. I wonder if the incumbent minister, Pervaiz Rasheed, has more important businesses to attend to.

I found God in Turkey

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“Whatever is meant for you, […], is bound to come to you. It may have to come all the way from Istanbul to San Francisco, or even by a more roundabout route, but it will come to you.” – Sheikh Mozaffar Ozak
And that is how I found myself at the Dubai airport, waiting to board my next flight to Istanbul, wondering how on earth I ended up there. Wasn’t travel one of those things that other people did, but never me? Wasn’t it for carefree people? Surely not for me, for I have too many responsibilities. I am not a mom who leaves her kids to go off and have fun on her own. Or, at least, that was what I thought. Yet, in those surreal moments of an almost out-of-body experience, I stepped outside my life and saw myself as someone doing exactly what I thought I was not capable of. I was actually enjoying time on my own, and it did not feel like a selfish thing to do. It all started from a random tweet that caught my eye. On an impulse, I clicked on a tiny link for this tour, tucked away in a corner of some blog, and registered for it without thinking twice about the logistics, my job or the many balls I juggle in the name of responsibilities. Driven by an unseen force, nothing stopped me, not even the long lines at the passport office or the multiple day trips to Islamabad for my visa. It was meant to be. This unique study-travel tour was under Professor Omid Safi, who teaches Islamic Studies at the University of North Carolina. Safi confesses to having a love affair with Turkey for the past 20 years. With him, I had the opportunity of seeing places that an average tourist never gets to visit: little known shrines, madrassas and mosques. Listening to him explaining the historical significance and the little secrets hidden in the architecture of these places was magical. It was something one could never find in a guidebook. Listening to him reciting the Masnavi and discussing Maulana Rumi, his life, the heart and the soul, was a rare treat. Istanbul and colours Istanbul is love at first sight; the moment I caught a glimpse of the Bosphorus, from the airplane window, I knew I had fallen in love. It’s a city of many picturesque oxymorons. Historic places, bohemian views, east-meets-west instances and a memoir of the grandeur of days gone by – Istanbul had it all. A city of colours: the blues of Sultanahmet, the golds of Hagia Sofya and the red sunset at the Bosphorus. And the Spice Bazaar is a different story altogether. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Spice Bazaar. Photo: Sophia Anjum[/caption] The steep cobblestone streets, old madrassas turned into teahouses, centuries old cemeteries nestled behind shops; Istanbul lived up to the hype. Despite how modern Istanbul is, the ambiance has strains of history. Roman Emperors and Ottoman Sultans once roamed these streets – and now I was walking the same paths. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] An old madrassa (R) and a madrassa turned into a tea cafe (L). Photo: Sophia Anjum[/caption] While I visited famous historical landmarks like Hagia Sofya, Sultanahmet Mosque and the Topkapi Palace, it was the exploring of lesser-known neighbourhoods and small markets that brought me greater joy. In Istanbul, I got to live my fantasy of strolling alone aimlessly in a foreign city, getting lost, boarding the wrong train, getting off at some unknown station and not caring at all as to how I’d get back to my hotel. Aimless wandering is a luxury a responsible life often does not afford us. Those moments, stolen from the mundane, were therapeutic. On the cosmopolitan side of Istanbul lies Beyoğlu, with the lively and thriving Istiklal Street lined with art galleries and cafes. An old tram taking people from Galata Tower to the famed Taksim Square added just the right touch of the quaint old world’s charm. Istanbul is where I realised the huge difference between Turkish and Pakistani societies. What I admire most about that place is the religious and cultural pluralism… the level of tolerance that has come to be redundant in our society. It’s true that Turkey has had its share of ethno-religious conflicts in the past. The dominance of Muslim culture, despite it being a secular state, has been a source of constant tension. But with all its political and religious complexities Turkey happens to be a very open-minded society when it comes to practicing religion. Turks, Kurds, Christians, Muslims, Jews, Alavis and atheists co-exist peacefully in one incredibly diverse mix over there, and seeing that made me wish that Pakistan was like that. Bursa and mysticism Bursa, also known as Yeşil Bursa (Green Bursa – for its gardens and parks), is a small laid-back town at the slopes of Mount Olympus (Uludağ). It is some four hours from Istanbul by car and famous for its Ottoman architecture, silk markets, Turkish Hammams and the scrumptious Iskendre Kebap. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Iskendre Kebap. Photo: Sophia Anjum[/caption] On our way to Bursa, we made a stop at the Sufi lodge of Rahmi Oruç Güvenç. He is a Sufi musician with a Doctorate degree in Clinical Psychology in the field of Music Therapy. It was a small lodge on the outskirts of a village with halls filled with dervishes from different parts of the world – singing, playing instruments, serving food, eating and whirling. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Oruc Lodge. Photo: Sophia Anjum[/caption]   None of this was orchestrated unlike the many whirling dervish performances. At the time of our visit, a sama (the whirling ceremony) involving the 99 Names of Allah was in progress. This was a non-stop sama for 99 days and nights, which dervishes do in shifts. When I reached, it was Day 11. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] The Fountain inside Ulu Mosque at Bursa. Photo: Sophia Anjum[/caption] The fascinating blend of musical instruments, lovely voices praising Allah and the beautiful souls whirling in a state of trance is something that sinks in you forever. Konya and love When it comes to the idea of “love”, I am something of a cynic. Hence, the legends about Konya’s effect on the human heart brought out the sceptic in me. To me, it all sounded a bit cheesy. Yet, within a few hours in that city, I stood corrected. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="506"] Maulana Rumi's Tomb. Photo: Sophia Anjum[/caption] A pilgrimage to the home of Maulana Rumi, the Sufi mystic, the original whirling dervish, changed me forever. In Konya, love is almost palpable. Here, I understood these famous words of Rumi.
“Come, come, whoever you are Wanderer, worshiper, lover of leaving, It doesn’t matter. Ours is not a caravan of despair. Come, even if you have broken your vows a thousand times Come, yet again, come, come.”
Here, I have a confession to make. While Maulana Rumi’s tomb of turquoise tiles and gold calligraphy is deeply impacting, what touched my heart more was Shams Tabrizi, who was nestled away in a small mosque. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Shams Tabrizi. Photo: Sophia Anjum[/caption] That was when I had my moment… when the scatter in my world just came together like pieces of a puzzle falling into place. When every wound I had in my heart just tore open to let the light in; when I turned myself upside down to empty myself of every feeling – negative or positive. In that moment I found myself and, dare I say, felt a connection with Allah. Cheesy? Yes! True? Absolutely. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="337"] Shrine of Shams Tabrizi. Photo: Sophia Anjum[/caption] At the entrance to Maulana Rumi’s shrine, there is a beautiful verse inscribed that aptly describes my experience in Konya.
Ka’aba al ushaaq ba-en shud muqaam , Har ke naaqis anja shud tamaam (This place is the lovers’ temple of God. Each comes broken... all leave whole)
What made this trip especially amazing were the people I shared those two weeks with. It was a very diverse group of people of all ages from different walks of life. Although most of us did not know each other before our rendezvous in Istanbul, the friendships and bonds that were formed within such a short span of time are unbelievable. I could never have had such an amazing experience had it not been for the lovely people with whom I shared those memories. My friends back home tell me that I have changed. But all I did was to dispose off those layers of my personality that were there to please others. In Turkey, away from everyone who knew me, I tried being myself and was accepted, admired and loved; I met my inner child for the first time and she turned out to be so much fun.

Aqsa Mahmood, the ISIS bride

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I might be wrong but I believe I can almost imagine her. I can imagine her thoughts, her anguish, her pain and her emotions. I can imagine her heart nagging her as she would watch those numbers, those scenes of brutality, death and destruction on television, newspapers and social media; feeding on the truth and on Western propaganda against Syrian President Bashar al-Assad. I can imagine as she would study extremist religious content and wake up every day feeling that everything she has done, everything she is doing, this whole world, is so pointless. She should rather be doing something for her real life – her afterlife. She should do something for her brothers and sisters being killed, raped and wounded in Syria. So Aqsa Mahmood, a 20-year-old British woman of Pakistani origin, left her home to go to Syria last year where she joined the Islamic State of Iraq and Syria (ISIS), married an ISIS fighter and moved on to Iraq. I am not apologising for her, I am not even justifying her actions or showing sympathy for her. She does not deserve it. I am just trying to understand her. It is painful and unfortunate because she was someone who, apparently, had the opportunity to achieve so many other things. Yet, her emotional depth, will and strength of character to feel the pain of others and to work for them in the way she deemed right, made her take the path that she did. In the process, however, she has been wasted and destroyed, because she went off in the wrong direction. And she wasn’t the only one either. There are many others like her with similar sentiments, who have ended up where she did. Another 26-year-old Malaysian doctor, calling herself ‘Shams’ on social media, also travelled to help in Syria, joined ISIS and married an ISIS fighter because she believed it was her ‘duty’ to help her brothers and sisters. If Aqsa Mahmood’s parents are to be believed, and I admit they are not the best source since they must be scared for themselves and her siblings, there was no other fundamentalist involved; no one egging her on to the path she took. She was an integrated member of the society and attended college as a successful student. She only studied religion on her own, as highlighted by the phrase the media has been using for her – she was a ‘bedroom radical’. This puts question marks on a lot of things. While it is true that we only see what we want to see, no one is born knowing what he/she wants to see. While of course our disposition plays a part, it is the society and our experiences which shape our paradigm. So before anything else, her radicalisation puts a question mark on the British society. In the larger context, it also puts a question mark on the actions of several governments, for example the USA, Saudi Arabia, Britain itself among others. But more than anything else, it puts a question mark on Muslims and their interpretation of Islam. I know the popular argument; the one presented by people of all religions whenever they tend to disagree with interpretations of religion: this isn’t what our religion really is, this isn’t real Islam. One might question, what is then? For some, Islam is, apart from some basic injunctions and boundaries, exactly what the believer understands it be, at least for those of us who bother to think. For others, unfortunately the majority, real Islam is the Islam that the clerics present, the radical Islam. This Islam is the one that drives ISIS, Taliban, al Qaeda and their cohorts; the Islam that is based on the literal interpretation of some of the Quranic text and the Islam that was indeed practised centuries ago. It is the Islam that is out-dated for the realms of the contemporary world. What religions need today is the adoption of the spirit behind the religious texts and the practice of prophets; what Muslims need is Prophet Muhammad’s (PBUH) political sagacity and pragmatism, his kindness and perseverance; we need the rationalism of Mu’tazilites and the open-mindedness of Sufis. We need to learn to care about this world and its people; we need to understand that the way forward for any religion in the contemporary world is through its ability to instil compassion and humility in humans and to work for the economic wellbeing and scientific progress of the world at large and not fighting or conquering others. Perhaps learn a bit from the people who, according to us, control the world through economic means and whom we claim to understand and know. And above all what we need is to live in 21st century – not in seventh century like we have been living for the past 1400 years. We need all this and more. On one hand, I imagine Aqsa Mahmood, ‘Dr Shams’ and many others like them could have led a different life had they not set out on the path of violence and militancy. On the other hand, however, I imagine their wasted life and imminent deaths for fake words and false promises. The life that is leading them to nothing but what they set out to cure: death and destruction. And this comparison, this imagination is so heart rending that I don’t want to imagine anyone else like that again, ever.


Coke Studio 7 comes with strings attached

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What an opening! The much-awaited Coke Studio season seven begins with the hope of fresh music, sounds, return-to-roots and much more. Strings have teamed up to become the sound producers of a huge franchise even though they have no prior music production experience. It was but expected that, apart from picking all the right people, their overall presentation would be a ‘celebration of strings’, given Bilal Maqsood’s love for the guitar. Episode one fared well and stumbled a little as well, but gave much to celebrate. [embed width="620"]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x25xopb_coke-studio-pakistan-season-7-episode-1-promo_music[/embed] Ustad Raees Khan and Abida Perveen: Mein Sufi Hoon Who can go wrong placing these two maestros together? It was a joy to see someone with the stature of Ustad Raees Khan in Coke Studio and what better way to celebrate ‘strings’ than to celebrate the sitar! Abida ji’s and Ustad Sahab’s juxtaposition in front of each other was a brilliant visual placement and was well-captured by the camera. However, coming to the song itself, one needs a superb maestro level producer to really be able to arrange and pull off the performances of such experienced stellar musicians. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Coke Studio Facebook page[/caption] The two giants remain largely ‘separated’ throughout the song. Ustad Sahab’s Alaap was followed by Abida ji’s singing which was then followed by Ustad Sahab’s solo and then Abida ji’s (and the drum’s) crescendo. The sitar should have been given the space to ‘talk’ to the song directly. A continuous memorable short sitar melody should have been woven into the song such that without it, the song would seem empty. There were many places where there could be a ‘nok-jhok’ between the vocalist and the sitar which would have created more balance in the song, but we never got to experience that beautiful possibility. Overall, the two flowed beautifully in parallel, but never did meet. And that is where it fell short. [embed width="620"]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x2696w0_ustaad-raees-khan-abida-parveen-mein-sufi-hon-coke-studio-season-7-episode-1_music[/embed] Sajjad Ali: Tum Naraz Ho Before regaling his songs, one should commend Sajjad Ali’s style. The man just looked dapper! The casual top unbuttoned black shirt gave a hint of how comfortable he was with his surroundings and the ease with which he was going to own the song. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Coke Studio Facebook page[/caption] The overall “Coors” stringed sound was a great start to the song. Sajjad on the flute was a perfect complement and of course we all love him – even when he whistles! But again, there were moments when the song could have gone a notch up – the harmonies were largely wasted. Instead of humming and singing the same lyrics in different pitch, the harmonies could have vocalised ‘sargams’ instead – something that he himself is very good with. Strings gave tribute to ‘strings’ by bringing Faraz Anwar in this song – a fine, skilful musician and guitarist of Pakistan. However, his hurried ligardos and hammer-ons did not do anything for or in the song. Though his technique was spot on, Faraz’s solo was largely forgetful. [embed width="620"]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x2696pn_sajjad-ali-tum-naraz-ho-coke-studio-season-7-episode-1_music[/embed] Niazi brothers: Lai Beqadraan Naal Yaari Another fresh and great choice for Coke Studio! Loved the way they worked the mike, performed, entertained and sang! The opening mandolin piece by a scion of the Taffoo family, Ustad Tanveer, was a great inclusion. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Coke Studio Facebook page[/caption] Just like Abida ji brought the Sufi heart of Sindh in her song, the Niazi brothers brought the robustness and the celebratory mood of Punjab to us. Again, flautist Sajid Ali was perfectly in sync with the song, as was Ustad Tanveer’s mandolin interjections with Babar Khanna’s dhol; even Faraz delighted in his little riffs! The Niazi brothers are capable of far more vocal versatility and it would have been even more delightful had they experimented a bit more. But I guess the mere thought of tinkering with a folk song popularised to international level by your father can be a bit daunting! But then again, isn’t this what Coke Studio is about? [embed width="620"]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x2696vq_niazi-brothers-lai-beqadraan-naal-yaari-coke-studio-season-7-episode-1_music[/embed] Asrar: Sab Aakho Ali Ali It is heartening to see Coke Studio embrace freshness and Asrar’s uninhibited vocals were a great addition to the line-up. His first properly produced song seemed to be greatly enjoyed by all musicians as maybe there was no ‘pressure’ to measure up. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Coke Studio Facebook page[/caption] And how lucky is Asrar to get Aamir Zaki as the guest musician on his song? Zaki’s first solo was soulful and restrained; he completely owned the song in the end. This is master musicianship and I hope all other musicians were taking notes! Could there be a better way to celebrate strings? [embed width="620"]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x2696p1_asrar-sab-aakho-ali-ali-coke-studio-season-7-episode-1_music[/embed] The Coke Studio line-up is great and the first episode has brought with it great promise. Strings itself is a part of the line-up and while Ahad Nayani is superb, the guitarist seems redundant. Ahad’s bermudas maybe someone’s ‘styling and personality’ idea, but it does not make music look, appear and sound sublime. And Asrar would be well advised neither does smoke doth a true Sufi make. Here’s to hoping that Coke Studio also encourages instrumentals, and musicians aren’t just mere accompanists to vocalists. There are many like Ustad Tanveer, Aamir, Ustad Raees and Faraz who can carry off entire shows on their own. So I am looking forward to seeing the gap between vocalists and instrumentalists being bridged in the rest of the season.


In conversation with SomeWhatSuper: Let their ‘Bandook’ blow you away

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In the age of the cloud, things are progressing fast and people are accepting changes coming along with it. The internet has revolutionised not only the way we consume media, but also how the media infiltrates into our lives, and into the lives of the ones who control it. Our music industry is witnessing a positive change, thanks to the internet, and new musicians with their creative music, are showing the world the amount of talent our country has. SomeWhatSuper is one such duo who recently came out with their single ‘Bandook’, a catchy dance track. But here’s the catch, it’s in Punjabi, which makes the track so much more interesting. I recently got a chance to talk to Feroz and Talha, the voice behind SomeWhatSuper, about their experience of releasing and creating the track, and using the uber cool new music platform Patari to take things forth. [embed width="620"]https://soundcloud.com/somewhatsuper/somewhatsuper-bandook-original-mix[/embed] How did you guys come up with the lyrics to the song? What’s the story behind the lyrics? For me, it’s the lyrics which are the really catchy part of the song. What is the girl talking about? I don’t understand the Punjabi bit, so help us understand the song a bit.

The lyrics to the song were not just a random fluke; they were well thought out and were inspired by the research and experiment we did with our kind of music. Two years back, we bought a random sample pack off the internet. This sample pack had bonus vocals that later became the vocals of Bandook. The lyrics, ‘Tureya Tureya janda’ are from ‘Bajra Da Sitta’ whereas ‘Dukhan Di Roti’ is a Sufi poem by Shah Hussain. We call them ‘Tappay’. A typical response to this might be that the lyrics are copied from Badshah, but these are a mix of two very old folk songs that inspired us to give it a twist with a genre of our interest and come up something phenomenal for our listeners out there. Initially, when we started on Bandook, we stopped working on it for a while, but the fact that we often found ourselves mumbling the addictive lyrics and tune gave us a signal to work on it and create something out of it. The lyrics ‘Tureya Tureya Janda’ is where a girl is expressing how fragile her life is and the gun we have on our shoulder, we should be careful with that. The other part is the man, who is responding by saying that this is to feed my sadness, misery, and pain.
Why Punjabi? I understand that dubstep makes it something very catchy and appealing to the masses, but why did you decide to merge the two together?
Both of us belong to Punjabi families. People who do not belong to Punjabi families, even they are dazzled by the rich culture of Punjab. So the Punjabi background alone was enough to tempt us to work and experiment with Punjabi lyrics. Apart from this, we listen to Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan a lot. We listen to him musically and lyrically, and that is what signalled us to fuse (Punjabi and Electronic Dance Music) for good. For us, this is not really dubstep; we call it the Moombahton style. Basically Moombahton can be referred to English bhangra beats, and to easily convert Moombahton to bhangra, the right instruments need to be selected and we did the same for Bandook. The result, although it took quite a while for us to understand the specifics and mechanics, can work for the lyrics we have selected. Besides the Punjabi family background, we wanted to aim for the domestic music industry rather than going for the international industry. Our goal is to bridge the gap between the Pakistani music industry and its listeners, which is slowly dying. The bridging would not only revive it, but also establish a stable platform for others wanting to do the same.
How was the production experience and how did you decide that this is the sound you want to achieve with it?
The production process was not a simple one. It was difficult for us, as a team, to work things out and work our way through the lengthy and hectic process of production. The anticipation and interest kept us moving along. We created around 20 demos for Bandook, but somehow failed to get the sound we wanted, until we worked on demo number 21. Even after that, we had to work on three more demos for the final product. We still have two different versions of Bandook. One is for user listening and the other is for us to play during our live performances. We have postponed the releasing of the other version for a while. Things are very unpredictable when one is going through the production phase. You can never be sure how the final track, a demo or changes to a demo will turn out. It was very similar for Bandook too; it took us two years to create the first half whereas the other half was done and finalised within 20 minutes. We knew what we wanted the final sound to be, so it was easier for us to move forward with a clear direction. Producing our own music, when your laptops are your make shift studios is quite difficult, but the journey of Bandook was very stimulating for us.
The artwork, let’s talk about that. It’s just something really amazing. A bit raunchy and adventurous, were you conscious of what you wanted to achieve with the artwork of the single?
Being musicians, we appreciate art. It works as an inspiration, it can act as food for the soul or it can even complement the work we do. And that is why SomeWhatSuper and art go hand in hand. For this specific cover, our friends Raza and Amar really helped us put together a fancy and catchy cover art work. We left it at their discretion and the cover took us by surprise. It is not only different and catchy, but completely complements what we have to offer to our listeners. It made our track a complete package, added to the unique element we were banking on, and added vitality to the entire Bandook story.
Have you heard it play in clubs, if that’s what you were going for with this single? What’s in store for the single and how do you plan to take it ahead and make it even bigger than it already is?
Aiming for the clubs was never on our list, especially when it comes to Bandook. For Bandook to become the ultimate summer anthem is what we had in our minds; we want people blasting their cars with this song. Many of our listeners and friends have sent us videos and Snapchats of people listening to Bandook in their cars or humming the tune. To take this ahead, we have a lot more to offer but we are very concerned about how we should further progress while keeping the distinctive element people have started associating with SomeWhatSuper and the sounds we work on. Various tracks are in the pipeline right now. There are a lot of demos that need to be revisited and perfected for our listeners.
How did the collaboration with Patari come into being? Who reached out first? Do you think that this collaboration is worth it? Patari is making an effort to bringing Pakistani music to the mainstream in a streamlined manner, but what do you think of it?
Initially, it was us who approached and shared our work with the Patari team. We got a response from Khalid Bajwa immediately and he was super excited about Bandook. He pitched a plan to take it forward through his platform of Patari. We left it entirely up to him on how he wants to promote the track. The response and feedback we got through Patari was very insightful and motivating on how we should take this forward from here. It’s been a month or so since the track was launched on Patari, we already have 20,000 hits. We are ranked as number one on their charts. I think we were very lucky to be going live with Bandook the same time Patari is growing too. We hopped on to the bandwagon. As Patari grows, we have a more promising platform to come forward to and we get a chance to grow with it as well. It is an amazing venture for the Pakistani music industry which will further expand the horizon of opportunities for all the music lovers, listeners and musicians out there.
What were the musical influences behind this track? I see great potential in one single, but what do you as a band have in mind?
Bandook was not an instantaneous thing; there is no such story behind it to tell. There were instances where it hit us what we want to do to with the track and the production process was steered by us accordingly. We are an electronic group and we don’t really work as a band. Although one of us is a guitarist and the other a drummer, we bring our own specialities and expertise to the table and work together as any other electronic group does. We work from our laptops, collaborate, and keep on polishing it until we like what we hear. During this process, we share the raw demos with a few selected friends, which mostly bring in negative feedback or laughter. We are currently working on four different types of tracks, where two of them are affiliated with one of the biggest names from the music industry. Our next track is completely different from Bandook. We like to experiment with stuff. We will not stick to a single sound or a single genre. Apart from this, SomeWhatSuper is also working on a 30-minute non-stop mix of a kind that has never been done before. This comes out right after Eid, followed by going live with other projects in the pipeline. The year 2015 has already started well for us and going by the plans we have, we see it ending even bigger for us as well as the music industry we cater to.
It’s evident how hard working and enthusiastic this generation of musicians is when it comes to their work. It is not just about creating commercial music, but also about innovation, collaborations, and having fun. With Patari, the music industry might see the change it desperately needs. Young musicians are worth trusting and giving a chance to because they are the beacons of hope for the future. And we only wish they help our music industry grow, and create interesting things as SomeWhatSuper are doing.

A city within a city, the magical walled city of Lahore

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I grew up visiting nooks and corners of Lahore with my father as a weekend trip. From Lahore Fort to Data Darbar, streets of Bhati Gate to Anarkali food street, my father made sure that Lahore’s heritage was a major part of my upbringing. This urge to visit Lahore has been there in my heart ever since and I go out on the streets to replenish it every now and then. For more than a year, I have been going out to the walled city, talking to people, understanding their stories and clicking their portraits. I don’t consider myself a photographer, but I think I picked up a camera with an intention to capture their stories and to share them, at least with the people I know. We see tons of photographers every day going to the walled city, capturing its lights and its people, yet the craze doesn’t fade away. Today I thought, as one of those crazy people, I’ll share my reasons for going there in this scorching heat and mind-boggling traffic. The Walled city is a small world within this huge city of Lahore. Tourists are mostly fascinated by the architecture, but they miss out on the most interesting part i.e. people of the walled city. Yes! The thing which attracts me as a photographer is these people and their simplicity. It has a culture of its own; these people are not pretentious at all, rather they’re very humble, generous, and kind. They have sheer warmth and don’t hesitate in sharing their stories with anyone. Just say salaam (hello) and they’ll even be willing to offer you free food with a warm cup of tea. Their shops are small, pockets even smaller, but their hearts are big enough to share anything they own. During my last visit to Sonehri Masjid (gold mosque) at the Delhi Gate, a friend and I were extremely tired and had a throbbing headache. A very decent uncle sitting at his shop right across the road not only offered us water but also ordered a nice cup of karak chai (strong tea) for us. When we tried to give him some money as a token of appreciation, he bluntly refused and said,

“Aap hamare mehmaan hain!” (You are our guests!)
You don’t see such generosity and simplicity anywhere else, not even within your own relatives anymore. The other thing which further accentuates the importance of the walled city is the cultural mix it offers. From colourful katlamas (deep fried stuffed bread) to handmade necklaces, from siri paaye (cow trotters) to street vendors selling anything and everything; the walled city has a lot of diversity to offer. A few weeks ago, I took a shot of a man while he made this incredible bread called katlama. He posed and created a beautifully huge round piece, and to my surprise, he gave me a generous piece of that bread for free. Can you imagine giving away your asset for free when you’re barely making enough money to make both ends meet? This hospitality is to be seen literally everywhere in the walled city. While enjoying that precious piece of bread, I looked down and there was what seemed like a 15-year-old boy blowing off the coal to keep it burning for the cook. His face was literally burning because of the steam and smoke, and yet he was too busy in his work to notice my presence. When I asked him his name and a few details while taking his shot, he smiled and said
“Ap meri tasweer Facebook pe lagaen gi kia?” (Will you post my picture on Facebook?)
Astounded and awe struck, I realised that everyone everywhere is quite different from our expectations. And these sorts of eye opening experiences are another highlight of the walled city. To add more colour to these places, a lot of religious activities are celebrated every year. One of the most famous is the Urs (death anniversary of a Sufi saint) at the shrine of Madhu Lal Hussain called ‘Mela Chiraghan’ (festival of lights). I visited it for the first time this year and trust me, it was a whole new experience. While a few boys were busy dancing to the beat of the dhol (drum), people were burning lamps and praying with a lot of devotion at the shrine. A special corner was booked for malangs where they were all scattered in a muddy ground without acknowledging the presence of anyone around them. The man taking care of the shrine offered me a red chaddar (large cloth for covering the body) with the four Quls from the Holy Quran printed on them. I was so pleased to have that souvenir that I actually had tears in my eyes. But of course, every place has its flaws as well. In this case, they might be minute, but exist nonethless. For instance, it’s not safe for females like me to visit these places alone because there’s always someone who can tease and harm you. Furthermore, there’s no proper place for parking and the traffic can get horrible after mid-day. But to sum it up, the experience in itself is worth all the hassle that I go through, something new every single time. Exposure to the walled city and its people is a good way of reinforcing values like simplicity, humility, and generosity in my personality. I know it’s hot outside and the odds are against anyone visiting the walled city, but the experience is worth every bit of difficulty you face. Make sure you take your children or younger ones along with you in order to establish a connection with our traditions. In this world of pretentiousness, take some time out and meet the people who have only sheer warmth to offer. All photos: Anam Saeed

You can play Holi too, even if you are Muslim

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Phagwa, more commonly known as Holi, celebrated on the full moon day of Phalgun (the 12th month of the Hindu calendar), is a festival that heralds the arrival of spring. Celebrated with colours, it is a symbolic expression of the changing of temperatures and the blossoming fields of green. My childhood memories are consumed with numerous instances from Holi. Living in a predominantly Hindu neighbourhood in Delhi, and belonging to one of the few Muslim families, we were surrounded by bright, colourful faces on the day of Holi. The enthusiastic crowd did not hesitate to smear my parents with colour the second they stepped out, making them blend in with them and their equally vibrant surroundings. Eventually, my siblings and I joined the celebrations as well. I realised that when everyone is engaged in a joyous spirit, it’s difficult to identify anyone. And that is why, Holi, as I envision it, is the perfect way to witness the spirit of universal brotherhood beyond colour, creed, caste or social status. If taken in its true spirits, Holi was never meant to be a religious festival, singled out by a certain faith. Though, like other religious festivals, it is symbolic of a legend – the story of Holika Dahan and her triumph over evil. However, the context of its celebration is said to have evolved to the legend of Krishna and Radha. Krishna, as a young boy, used to complain to his mother, Yashoda, about having a dark complexion, while his beloved Radha was fair. The conversation between a complaining son and his doting mother is narrated beautifully in a famous folk song:

Yashomati mayya sey bole Nand Lala, Radha kyun gori, main kyun kala? Boli muskaati Mayya, Sun merey pyaare, Gori gori Radhika ke, nain kajrare, Kaale nainon waali ney, aisa jadu dala, Tuu isee liye kaala. (Krishna asks mother Yashoda, “Why am I dark, while Radha is so fair?” Mother smiled and said, “Listen my dear,” “The fair Radha has dark black eyes. “The kohl-eyed lady has swept you with her magic. “And hence are you so dark.”)
And one day, to console Krishna, she teasingly said,
“What’s in a colour? Go and smear Radha’s face with any colour you like.”
And Krishna, out of love for Radha, smeared her with red gulaal (powdered colour). And there commenced the playing of colours and gopis between Krishna and Radha along with their friends. Their romance with playing Holi has been immortalised in many miniature paintings. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Krishna and Radha playing Holi with their Gopis.[/caption] This has a touch of Mughal art. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Another painting of Krishna and Radha enjoying the colours of Holi with their Gopis.[/caption] Mughal Emperors admired Holi as well, for its association with colour and romance. They were so fond of it, that they brought the practice of playing Holi to their courts and palaces. Akbar is no exception, considering his secular and tolerant stance towards other religions and his marriage to a Hindu queen, Jodha Bai. Jahangir, the romantic art connoisseur is documented to have played Holi with his queen, Nur Jahan, in his palace and called it Eid-e-Gulabi. One can imagine the ecstatic aura that must have taken place in the palace by red gulaal, rose petals and rose water sprinkled all over during the royal play. Auranzeb’s stance on the colours of Holi came as a surprise to me. Lane Poole, in his book, Aurangzíb and the Decay of the Mughal Empire wrote,
“During his time there used to be several groups of Holi singers who besides reciting libertine lyrics also indulged in salaciousness, accompanied by various musical instruments.”
Bahadur Shah Zafar’s verses on Holi are now sung as a part of the Phaag (folk songs of Holi). One of the most sung verses are:
Kyo Mo Pe Rang Ki Maari Pichkaari Dekho Kunwar Ji Doongi Mein Gaari (Why drench me with color spray,) Now my prince, I will swear at you) Bahut Dinan Mein Haath Lage Ho Kaise Jane Doon Aaj Phagwa To Son Ka Tha Peeth Pakad Kar Loon. (After long have I’ve got my hands on you, how will I let you go? Today is Holi, and perfect time to catch hold of you)
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] This is Mughal Emperor Jehangir playing Holi in his palace.[/caption] Sufi poets too eulogised Radha and Krishna’s romance in Holi, while expressing their love for their revered Sufi saints or even God. It is Shah Niyaz’s Hori Ho Rahi hai that is immortalised by Abida Parveen.
Hori hoye rahi hai Ahmad Jiya ke dwaar Hazrat Ali ka rang bano hai Hassan Hussain khilaar Aiso holi ki dhoom machi hai chahoon or pari hai pukaar Aiso anokho chatur khiladi rang deeyon sansaar “Niyaz” pyaara bhar bhar chidke ek hi raang sahas pichkaar. (Holi is happening at beloved, Ahmed’s (PBUH) doorsteps. Colour has become of Hazrat Ali (AS) and Hasan (AS), Hussain (AS) are playing. It has become such a bustling scene of Holi that it has become talk of the town, People are calling others from all over, What unique and clever players (Hasan and Hussain) that they coloured the entire world. Niyaz (the poet) sprinkles bowlfuls of colour all around, The same colour that comes out of thousands of pichkaaris ( spray guns)).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lTvAS6oKo1U Bulleh Shah also played Holi with his master.
Hori khailoongi keh kar Bismillah Naam nabi ki rattan charhi, bond pari Illalah Rang rangeli ohi khilawe, jo sakhi howe fana fi Allah (I shall play Holi, beginning with the name of Allah. The name of Prophet is enveloped with light, He only makes us play with colours, who annihilates with Allah)
Amir Khusrow relates to Holi in fascinating ways. Khusrow refers, not just to the colour or the play, but to the birth place of Krishna (Mathura) in the famous Aaj Rung Hai:
Gokal dekha, Mathra dekha, Par tosa na koi rang dekha Ey main dhoond phiri hoon Des bides mein dhoond phiri hoon, Purab dekha pacham dekha uttar dekha dakkan dekha Re main dhoond phiri hoon Des bides mein dhoond phiri hoon, Tora rang man bhaayo Moinuddin Mohe apne hi rang mein rang le Khwaja ji Mohe rang basanti rang de Khwaja Ji Mohe apne hi rang mein rang de (In summary: I saw Gokul, Mathura (birth place of Krishna) and even East to West I roamed, but I did not find anyone with a colour like yours. My heart is enamoured by your colour, hence colour me in your shade, my master.)
Another lesser known verse I came across is,
Khelooongi Holi, Khaaja ghar aaye, Dhan dhan bhaag hamarey sajni, Khaaja aaye aangan merey.. (I shall play Holi as Khaaja has come to my home, Blessed is my fortune, O’ friend, As Khaaja has come to my courtyard.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=owFCPKI9k2A There are various other examples. What one concludes from all this information is that, no matter what, it is impossible to separate the two cultures, meshed into one another, owing to their peaceful coexistence for centuries in the subcontinent. These celebrations of culture are all about love and have no place for hate and discrimination. So let’s celebrate this Holi with an open mind, and more importantly, an open heart!

The B-side: Junaid Jamshed and untold stories behind the controversies

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After leaving a lucrative career as a pop singer, Junaid Jamshed (JJ) has evolved into a preacher and poster boy for the austere deobandi group, the Tableeghi Jamaat. He once jokingly remarked,

“When I was a singer people use to throw rose petals at me, since I came into Islam they throw stones at me.”
This simple statement does more to highlight Pakistan’s state of affairs than explain how someone, who has been referred to by his musician friends, and in his Islamic circles, as “the nicest person one can meet”, can be party to one controversy after another? Some say, he is a ‘buffoon who continues to stick his foot in his mouth’. So, is it because one minute he is talking about women not driving and the next he is seen holding hands and hugging his old mates from the music industry? Or are other forces at work? [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="556"] One minute he is talking about women not driving and the next he is seen holding hands and hugging his old mates from the music industry.
Photo: Twitter[/caption] The whole world (well, mainly Pakistanis and expat Pakistanis) watched with horror as the man cited as one of the 500 most influential Muslims in the world was attacked with punches and kicks at the Islamabad airport. It was later revealed that these men were part of the pro-Qadri brigade. However, the video that went viral featured the unbearded attackers in western clothing, following the orders of a bearded man dressed in shalwar kameez and a topi. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9zj30Rs1v4&oref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3Dm9zj30Rs1v4&has_verified=1 The bearded man shouted,
“We have been looking for you” “Beat him!”
And,
“You are “ghustakh-e-ay-rasool””.
Needless to say, JJ’s non-violent response, coupled with his attempts to converse with the attackers while standing his ground, won him admiration from world over. The question is, how did he get into a position, where accusations of blasphemy led him to a point where he left the country until the situation cleared up? In one instance in London, he stopped an interview because tears started to flow down his face upon mentioning how his words had been misunderstood. This mild mannered man, who most have been seen on TV screens smiling, crying or begging for forgiveness, had not realised that he had walked into a minefield, where bitter religious rivalries existed between the Barelvis’s represented by the Sunni Tehreek and the Wahabi styled Deobandis’. The Sunni Tehreek were, as the saying goes, ‘a bit peeved’ by the sudden popularity of the Deobandis. If the Deobandis had not realised it, the Barelvis had; it was the fame of JJ that had increased the attractiveness of the group. JJ had become the protégé of Maulana Tariq Jameel, whom he saw as his “elder brother”. He travelled around from Canada to America, Australia, New Zealand and Britain to spread the groups message. His events were packed wherever he went and his following grew, as did the popularity of the group he represented. Through his efforts, he managed to put this unknown group on the radar, giving it a softer image than the one it had acquired through the notorious activities of it’s off-shoot, the Sipah-e-Sihaba (known for killing and maiming innocents perpetuating an intolerant form of Islam). However, the drama that unfolded highlighted just how much the beautiful, merciful and forgiving Islam the Prophet (PBUH) had preached had now been twisted and used by the holier-than-thou groups and lynch mobs that claim to be judge and jury. Fearing the lynch crowd, no media or publication really examined what JJ had said. The issue of JJ being blasphemous, according to many clerics, was not so much blasphemy as it was the way in which he had narrated the story of the blessed Prophet’s wife Hazrat Ayesha (RA), taken from the Sunni book, Sahih Bukhari. According to Maulana Ibraheem Isa,
“It was not so much a case of blasphemy but a matter of incorrect adab”.
Overnight, JJ’s mentor, who he always consulted along with the “elders in Raiwind”, disowned him publicly with Tariq Jameel stating that he was ‘ignorant and uneducated as a scholar’ and that he had no ties with the Tableeghi Jamaat (TJ). This came as a surprise to JJ considering he had been travelling the world upon their orders, as well as raised the profile of the group. According to their rules, no member of the group could take independent decisions without permission from the heads at Raiwind; if JJ was asked to appear on a morning TV show, he had to have acquired permission to do so. His views on women, which according to his old friends used to be quite liberal, now became conservative, reflecting the Islamic group’s attitude. He ended up saying contradictory things about women which he probably found illogical himself, as a close source to his family explains,
“His beloved aunty is in politics and his wife was allowed to drive but she chose not to, and his daughter worked for a short while as an intern in London.”
Most people had become accustomed to JJ’s inimitable, down-to-earth style; full of humour and pleasant bayans, his style of singing religious songs and videos were peppered with a Bollywood appeal and as the saying goes,
“You can take the boy out of show business but you can’t take the show business out of the boy.”
If we examine who was the main person who had accused JJ, we may get a clearer picture of how this celebrity mullah was used as a tool to attack a rival group and tarnish their popularity. During the tirade against his alleged blasphemy in the press and websites, no one once bothered to ask why a video that had already been circulating for the past two years was suddenly highlighted as blasphemous? We mustn’t forget that this is a country where it doesn’t take long to “rent a crowd” for a handful of rupees. Many use the blasphemy laws to settle political or personal scores. It is also interesting that the main agitator against JJ who demanded his arrest and imprisonment was the Pakistan Sunni Tehreek (PST) Rabita Committee member Mubeen Qadri. Did it take Mr Qadri two years to come to the conclusion that JJ was a blasphemer? Also, is it not naive for Mr Qadri to be completely unaware that he had opened up a whole can of worms? Many legal advisers in the country have asked how many other tapes of JJ and other scholars he is willing to go through if he has issued a fatwa on a tape that was two years old. How many other people was he going to be enforcing a fatwa on? Apparently no other scholar except JJ, as time has shown. The other reason why no one from the political arena stepped in to help him was because JJ had unwittingly entered the murky world of politics by supporting Imran Khan’s dharnas. When the fervour started on the streets of Pakistan led by Imran Khan and Tahirul Qadri, by the end 2014, where Pakistanis were demanding a new system that caters to all, JJ’s enthusiasm could not be contained and he decided to voice his support for Imran Khan’s campaign to bring in “Naya Pakistan”. He stated in an interview,
“After years of watching injustices happening I don’t want to keep quiet anymore.”
He also attended the campaign site where he sang a few religious songs. The fact that the headquarters of the Deobandis is situated right next to Nawaz Sharif’s home on Raiwind, to what extent the Sharif brothers support the group is unclear. However, the Raiwind elders were not amused with JJ showing support for Imran Khan so he was ordered to take a back step. In the meantime, interestingly, we had Nawaz Sharif’s spokesperson Khawaja Asif speaking on TV bashing JJ’s credibility as a scholar and stating he is just a clothes seller. Inadvertently highlighting how upset Nawaz Sharif’s government was at JJ’s stance. No one supported JJ when he had to flee the country after an FIR was taken out against him. He said,
“All who were supposed to be my friends stopped calling me.”
Except his old Vital Signs band mates who were there for him. One can understand why many didn’t, but why the Deobandis disowned him so publicly is a question asked by many. The only explanation for the Deobandis stance may have been because JJ was becoming a liability as he did not stay within the unspoken sectarian boundaries that existed. He would attend any gathering whether it was Barelvis, Deobandis, Shias and Sufi in an effort to bring people together. And the forces that exist in Pakistan, those that want division, sectarian conflict, and turmoil in Pakistan, were not happy with his pleas for ‘unity’ on his TV shows. Needless to say the dharna’s came to a final end, and in the way that JJ had sacrificed his position with the ruling Nawaz Sharif party, along with all the people who sat out for months in the heat and intolerable weather with their children. In peaceful demonstrations, mostly the poor and the middle class were sacrificing their time; all their efforts were wasted. The dharna’s were disbanded a few months later because of the horrific killings of school children in Peshawar. But as many asked, shouldn’t the protests have continued especially after the killings, as the need for a just fair system, with education and social services had become dire? Imran Khan decided to end the dharna and reward all the thousands of people who had sat in the sun all day and night and made sacrifices; by secretly getting married. They say politicians are fickle; Imran Khan who had begged JJ and other celebrities to come and sing at the dharnas, didn’t bother to offer any support to him at the time of the blasphemy charges or now after he had been attacked by hooligans. Whereas the Nawaz Sharif’s government and Interior Minister Chaudhry Nisar did step in to arrest the attackers, realising most probably that JJ is not only a celebrity in Pakistan but internationally. It would be seen as a disgrace and affirm what most westerners believe; Pakistan is a failed state where religious extremists control the country. One also hopes that JJ has also learnt that one doesn’t have to go along blindly and spew up narratives he doesn’t really believe in, like Allah is not fond of women etc. He should instead continue to walk his own path, call for tolerance and remember to be a voice for those whose voices are suppressed. Those like Aasia bibi.

Are there too many cooks in Coke Studio’s broth?

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It’s that time of the year again, when the most anticipated musical project of the country hits our screens and is seen dodging the pressure of incredulous expectations attached to it. Coke Studio is back with its ninth season and will stick around for the next two months – all the while retaining an essential chunk of our national narrative. People will love it, hate it, love to hate it, and hate to love it – but everyone agrees there’s nothing quite like Coke Studio. Here are my two cents on the first episode of the current season. 1. Sasu Mangay If there’s anything this song does, it establishes the singing prowess of one Naseebo Lal. After a lifetime of singing lewd Lollywood songs that are recorded just as poorly, she shines throughout the song. A lesser-moving Umber Jaswal complements Naseebo well, but never manages to steal the show from her. Produced by Shiraz Uppal, this song isn’t your typical Coke Studio song and comparisons with Bollywood are justified. However, this fits the bill for a commercial number – something Coke Studio seems to require for its sustenance. 2. Aaja Re Moray Saiyaan https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bq29w9MJKTQ This one’s a quintessential Noori song: simple lyrics, upbeat music and light composition. Though many have claimed that both Noori and Zeb are way beyond singing childish ballads, we can always do with a happy-go-lucky number; not every song requires hefty Sufi poetry to qualify as serious music. Both Ali Hamza and Zeb render the demands of this song perfectly. The song instils in you a yearning for the simpler beauties of life. Go on a road trip through Pakistan and let this song be your companion! 3. Aaqa https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LekqDjknArc This song sounds just as good in real as it did on paper. The maestro Abida Parween, with the latest sensation Ali Sethi, some deep verses, Shuja Haider as the director, and some heavy dhols along the way – you get another gem from Coke Studio. Though Abida Parveen might have been under-utilised in this song, and at times Ali Sethi seems to be in a state of pain whilst trying to keep up with the Sufi Queen’s vocal chords (something he himself admits in the BTS video); on the whole the song works just as well. Only time will tell if this one goes down in history in the same league as Jugni and Tajdaar-e-Haram. 4. Jaanay Na Tu https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rweRzXdid5M The first episode of Coke Studio takes refuge from folk and tradition in the form of Ali Khan’s Jaanay Na Tu. A typical Pakistani pop number, this one’s serene and simple. It never tries too hard, and that works in favour of the song. Ali Khan’s soothing vocals gel well with the romantic, sweet melody. However, this isn’t the stuff Coke Studio favourites are made of – it’s only meant to get on the playlists of music aficionados. The first episode of Coke Studio was, notwithstanding the multitude of hits and misses, overall a good start. Since the broth is being handled by too many cooks this time, let’s see how the experiment turns out. But one thing’s for sure, Coke Studio has never shied away from experimentation, giving us some masterpieces during the process. We hope the current season has also got some in store for us.



The city of Sufism, saints and nirvana – Multan has more to offer than you think

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Earlier this year, I took a trip to Multan that was meant to be an official excursion, and yet somehow proved to be a bit of a life changer. As I waited to board my flight, I “checked in” on my Facebook account, and in turn was presented various sites referencing Multan as the “City of Saints”. All I knew about Multan was that it was famous for its blue pottery and other textile items, which is why this revelation made me feel excited at the prospect of my trip to the city. Coming from Karachi, I genuinely did not expect much from Multan. Call it arrogance, ignorance, or innocence, but I had absolutely no idea what awaited me. Thus, disembarking at the Multan airport was the start of many surprises to come. The airport itself is quite small, but is unbelievably clean, and if you ignore the land coverage, it is truly comparable to its counterparts across the country. Upon leaving the airport, I realised that when my colleagues described Multan as a small city, they were not kidding. I was due to visit two branches as part of my official trip, and it took less than seven minutes to reach the first location from the airport. The trip was not a long one by any means – my return flight was scheduled for 8:00pm the same day. However, as I completed my official agenda within working hours, my cab driver calculated I had almost two hours till I had to make my way to the airport, and suggested he show me around his city. As we made our way, he gave me a historical prelude to the sites he wanted to show me. I discovered Multan, Pakistan’s fifth-largest city, was a kingdom mentioned in the Mahabharata, conquered by Alexander the Great, called Darul Aman during Emperor Akbar’s time, and recognised as the birthplace of Baba Farid, the first Punjabi poet. On our way, we crossed the Ghanta Ghar (literally translated to clock tower) and the Hussain Agahi Bazaar. This is Multan’s oldest bazaar, indicating the antiquity of the city. The streets were dotted with eateries offering a variety of edibles, ranging from barbeque items, fish, sweets and savoury items. It feels as if Multan could easily pass off as a foodies’ paradise, given the chance. A short drive ahead, we made our way to the outskirts of the city, and stopped to see its famed pottery works. Multan is known for its “Kashi” (blue) pottery works. This craft is influenced by Persian, Central Asian and Mongolian art, and its origin can be traced to the city of Kashgar, in western China. Each piece is handcrafted and hand-painted before being treated with heat, and the resulting product, though very delicate, is also remarkably durable. Each piece maintains its colour and condition, even if exposed to the harshest of natural elements, for well over 100 years. Legend dictates Multan is Pakistan’s mystical heartland, and visiting the city is considered a spiritual journey for the pilgrim. After all, each of the likes of Bahauddin Zakariya, Shams Tabrizi and Multan’s glory, Shah Rukn-e-Alam, has a shrine in the city in their honour. Though I managed to get a fleeting view of each shrine, I made it a point to visit that of Rukn-e-Alam. Having never visited a shrine before, I was not aware of the protocols, if any, which needed to be followed. To be fair, one cannot really gauge any prerequisites whatsoever from outside of the tomb, which is why you need to go in and find out on your own. In your first visit, like it was for me, it takes a while to overcome the grandeur of the external architecture of the mazaar and step inside. The domes, the intricate tile work, the floral and scripted patterns, all are testament to the creative genius of the tombs’ designers. Overcoming my initial awe and entering the tomb, I was transported to an entirely different world altogether. Decorated with lines of colourful lariyaan (flower strings), it was all unbelievably surreal. Taking a moment to close my eyes, I felt an indescribable calm wash over me. I realised there was no protocol at all – you just had to be. Everyone else was simply doing what they wanted to. Some devotees slept on the shrine floor, some chanted a kalaam I couldn’t really understand, while others just stood praying near the grave. There were small white structures around the main grave, which I was later told were graves of Rukn-e-Alams’ devotees. Upon my enquiry, I was informed these people were buried vertically; hence the small size of the graves. Right outside the tomb area is a “mannat-kadda”, which is a large sized lantern with “diyas” lit inside. A local man pointed out that for my prayers to actually be heard, I would have to place some money in the ledge beneath the mannat-kadda. Not sure how reliable this advice is. Nonetheless, the time I spent at this shrine gave me a new perspective on life in general. What does shrine culture represent to devotees who visit shrines across Pakistan? Is it just for nomads who count on getting a meal or two for free? Or is it about experiencing personal peace? Maybe there are those who have complete faith in the divine healing powers of the Sufis, or use these Sufis as a “waseela” (intercessor) to their prayers. Who knows? I do believe, however, that depending on the intensity of each visitor’s faith, these shrines provide an opportunity to attain absolute nirvana. In that moment – as I peacefully stood at Rukn-e-Alam’s tomb – I realised how, in dealing with the small stuff, I often miss the bigger picture. Looking at these devotees pursuing what they believed in, as they prayed and chanted kalaam, they seemed to connect with something bigger than themselves. And this, perhaps, is what Maulana Jalaludin Rumi meant when he said,

“Let yourself be silently drawn by the stronger pull of what you really love.”
All photos: Sarah Fazli

How a visit to Baba Auliya’s shrine in Karachi made me feel human again

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A sense of excitement ran through me as I set foot on the Pakistan's soil. I was participating in the Urs celebrations of Qalandar Baba Auliya, the grand master and founder of Silsila Azeemiyya, commemorated every year on January 27th. In particular, the topic for the International Spiritual Workshop, ‘Man and Human’, had gripped my attention, as I had not seen them as two different points of existence. As I was driven through the streets of Karachi, my heart paced in anticipation of meeting the current patriarch of the Silsila, Khwaja Shamsuddin Azeemi, a renowned Sufi saint and spiritual scholar. Setting foot into the festive yet spiritual atmosphere at the Surjani Township, it seemed to be charged by the energy and love of the benevolent saint, and I began reminiscing over his strive towards the enormous task of humanising mankind for over 60 years! Baba Auliya constantly reminded people of their true existence beyond their body, and brought their focus back to the surge of divine lights within them – their soul. While completing the registration formalities, I remembered his message,

“By the will of God, may my passion be your passion.”
What was the passion he wished to instil in us, I wondered? The annual platform aims to rebuild faith and dependency on the automated divine system ordained for the care of mankind. It attempts to save us from the clutches of the egoistic, independent and stressful life of loneliness. It urges the participants to leave their minds behind and operate through their hearts. Staunchly upholding gender equality, the scholar encouraged women like myself to recognise ourselves beyond the limited roles we are expected to play. He even stated the future of spirituality in this world lies in the hearts of women. As I prepared myself to attend the intense full day workshop, I noticed each table, with six to eight participants, being led by a coordinator. It was a perfect demonstration of unity in diversity. People of various nationalities, socioeconomic statuses, and educational and religious backgrounds sat together and contemplated on their existence as individuals, as well as their impact on each other collectively as a society. The coordinators facilitated the exchange of views till we all came to a mutual consensus of our existence as souls, and agreed that love is the universal language that brings this world together. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] The workshop venue[/caption] Halfway through the day, I was ushered to the langar (communal meal). I saw this as another platform that brought everyone together. This was a practical lesson that the body and mind needs nothing more but a piece of bread as fodder to survive. The rest of what we need is the high and vibrant spiritual energy emanating from the hearts of people around us. In sum, the workshop intends to regenerate each participant into an experience of humility, unity in diversity, acceptance and love. The workshop pushed me into deep contemplation throughout the night. The profound wisdom we encountered diluted boundaries between rich and poor, educated and illiterate, wise and ignorant, aware and unaware, and believers and non-believers, until we all came to the conclusion of our unified origin as a collective consciousness. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Attending a speech by Khwaja Shamsuddin[/caption] Oh, how beautiful it was to feel human again, in the real sense! The drive to the mazaar (shrine) of Qalandar Baba Auliya the next morning was an uplifting experience on its own. The atmosphere echoed with prayers and songs of devotion. I observed stillness in the faces of those in a deep meditative trance. Eyes lost in ecstasy, no one appeared to be themselves. The light in everyone’s eyes seemed to take their existence to another dimension. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Hazoor Qalandar Baba Auliya’s mazaar[/caption] Everyone was treated equally and fairly throughout. No one was considered more accomplished, or branded a failure. The highlight of the eventful day was the address by Shamsuddin, our spiritual scholar. His message reverberated in the air.
“Hold on to the rope towards God Almighty tightly and together. Think, speak, act and live as the Prophets and men of God do. They lived in the care of God Almighty. This body is only a garment of the soul. Unless you discover yourself, you can never discover God in your heart. One who dies without discovering his soul has not ended his life different from any other creature in this world. Man is created the vicegerent of God, and it is time we all took this responsibility bestowed upon us seriously by performing muraqaba (meditation), zikr (remembrance), and tafakkur (contemplation) on the clues left for us in this universe through God’s marvellous creations.”
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Khwaja Shamsuddin’s address on the final day[/caption] Our hearts were collectively touched by the simplicity with which the profound message was delivered. I found an exuberant joy present in the entire gathering as we realised what we seek is within our own selves to begin with. The participants who showed up fragmented, returned as complete individuals. Voids ceased to exist, as a feeling of completeness took over hearts. Our differences melted, and oneness transpired. The two days of this event – the highlight of the whole year for most of us – passed by in the blink of an eye. The mind thereafter only tries to replay the memory of the visit, knowing the saint has again brought us one step closer to the Divine, and to ourselves. Words fall short. I only know it as Urs, a ceremony of reunion with the Divine and ourselves, and Silsila, an attempt to bead each one of our souls into a formidable and strong chain. All photos: Anuradha Kamath

With Zidane back on the sidelines, will Real Madrid make the most of the summer transfer window?

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For much of the 2018-19 season, Real Madrid’s campaign has been driven by pessimism and trepidation. From mediocre performances on the field to a lack of purpose off it, the Los Blancos found themselves entrenched in a diatribe with a swathe of negative opinions from fans and critics alike.  But the return of the clubs’s favourite son Zinedine Zidane after his dignified exit nine months ago has cut through all the noise, at least for the time being. Zizou’s work is cut out for him as the rebuilding job at a club like Real Madrid, with extremely high expectations, won’t be an easy task by any stretch of the imagination. https://twitter.com/kevinchimuka/status/1113392173150502914 However, unlike towards the end of his last tenure, Zidane will have financial backing from the club. A report from The Independent claimed “Real Madrid president Florentino Perez has promised Zidane an expensive overhaul,” immediately after the Frenchman’s arrival. A few days later L’Equipe’s front page (titled Casino Royal) stated that: “Perez is ready to show faith in Zidane to turn the ship around by giving him a €500 million summer budget.” If Madrid are keen on spending heavily in the upcoming summer transfer window, they will have to do it wisely, bearing in mind their current expectations and without compromising future ambitions. Defence Real Madrid’s defence is, arguably, the least concerning aspect of their squad. Sergio Ramos and Raphael Varane might not have had the best of seasons, but they still form a formidable pairing in the centre of defence. But with Ramos aging and especially if Varane decides to leave, Madrid would need adequate replacements in order to beef up their backline options. Looking at the options, three names stand out in particular. These include Napoli’s Kalidou Koulibaly (27), Inter Milan’s Milan Skriniar (24) and Ajax’s Matthijs de Ligt (19). [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Kalidou Koulibaly during the Serie A match between US Sassuolo and SSC Napoli at Mapei Stadium - Citta' del Tricolore on March 10, 2019 in Reggio nell'Emilia, Italy. Photo: Getty[/caption] All three have no obvious weaknesses and possess the ideal skill set expected from a defender (strength, positioning and ball playing skills), supplemented by the fact that they are young enough to be part of the club for a very long time. While Madrid would be happy to bring in any one of these players, Skriniar would be cheaper as compared to the other two, considering the absence of a release clause in his contract with Inter. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Milan Skriniar of FC Internazionale competes for the ball with Danny da Costa of Eintracht Frankfurt during the UEFA Europa League Round of 16 Second Leg match between FC Internazionale and Eintracht Frankfurt at San Siro on March 14, 2019 in Milan, Italy. Photo: Getty[/caption] The 24-year-old also offers an added dimension of having played as a defensive midfielder with the Slovakian national side, and consequently can provide cover on two positions while also aiding in-game tactical switch. Midfielders Real Madrid have a substantial amount of talent in the centre of the park, with an impressive blend of young (Marcos Llorente, Fede Valverde and Dani Ceballos) and experienced players (Luka Modric, Toni Kroos and Casemiro). In order to cater to an aging Modric and take off pressure from Kroos, Madrid need a couple of additions to their midfield. However, they don’t need to spend heavily in this regard as the players they have loaned out – James Rodriguez to Bayern Munich and Mateo Kovacic to Chelsea – will be ideal suitors. Rodriguez’s incisiveness in the final third, both in open play and dead ball situations, will add creativity in central positions. This is of particular importance because a majority of Madrid’s attacks are wing-based, which is why the Colombian’s presence will stretch opposing defences and bring more unpredictability going forward. Also, through his quotes in the press, the midfielder has also indicated that there is no love lost between him and the Spanish giants, despite being left frustrated for playing time under Zidane previously. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] James Rodriguez of FC Bayern Muenchen controls the ball during the Bundesliga match between FC Bayern Muenchen and 1. FSV Mainz 05 at Allianz Arena on March 17, 2019 in Munich, Germany. Photo: Getty[/caption] Kovacic might not have had the best of seasons at Chelsea, but he can still play a vital role in The Whites midfield with his ability to play line-breaking passes; a trait which is of pivotal importance, especially against many La Liga sides who like to sit deep and defend. Also, the Croatian’s best time in Madrid colours came while playing under Zizou, which makes a strong case of having him back in the Spanish capital. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Mateo Kovacic of Chelsea in action during the FA Cup Fifth Round match between Chelsea and Manchester United at Stamford Bridge on February 18, 2019 in London, United Kingdom. Photo: Getty[/caption] Forwards Ever since the departure of club legend Cristiano Ronaldo, the talk surrounding Real Madrid’s attacking pedigree has shown no signs of subsiding. Since the departure of the Portuguese, the goals have significantly dried up for the Los Blancos and hence the need for some clinical finishers in front of the goal is, probably, more than ever. Talking about forwards, one player that has constantly been linked with Real Madrid is Chelsea’s Eden Hazard. Although there is no doubt about the Belgium international’s footballing prowess and he will also be a seamless fit at Real, signing him now, at the age of 28, would mean the club shelling a lot of money in return for only two to three peak years. While it would be unfair to totally rule out a move, the club should only consider Hazard as a fall-back option. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] 31st March 2019, Cardiff City Stadium, Cardiff, Wales; EPL Premier League football, Cardiff City versus Chelsea; Eden Hazard of Chelsea looks back at a missed chance. Photo: Getty[/caption] Moving on, Paris Saint-Germain’s (PSG) Kylian Mbappe, despite being an ideal solution to Real Madrid’s goal scoring troubles, is a long shot considering his massive price tag. Although there are plenty of rumours in the transfer market regarding his move to Spain, the French club will go all out to keep the 20-year-old star at the club, keeping in mind the fact that he is at the core of their European ambitions. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Kylian Mbappe of PSG celebrates a goal during the Ligue 1 match between Paris Saint Germain and Guingamp at Parc des Princes on January 19, 2019 in Paris, France. Photo: Getty[/caption] Taking into account all the factors and realistic options available on the market, Real Madrid will be better off if they work on the lines of signing Liverpool’s Sadio Mane and Inter Milan’s Mauro Icardi. Mane’s pace and technical ability has been part and parcel of Liverpool’s success in the past couple of seasons, and he will add a lot of potency to Real Madrid’s attack. Although he has played mostly as a winger for The Reds, if need be, he can play in a more central role as a striker as well. In Mane, Madrid will find a willing worker, who can track back and help out with defence and also link up well with Marcelo Vieira on the left wing. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Sadio Mane of Liverpool FC runs with the ball during the Premier League match between Liverpool FC and Tottenham Hotspur at Anfield on March 31, 2019 in Liverpool, United Kingdom. Photo: Getty[/caption] On the other hand, Icardi has stacked up some great numbers for his Italian club with his lethal finishing. He may not participate much in build-up play but his positioning and movement in front of the goal is particularly impressive. Real Madrid have been guilty of creating lots of chances but not converting them during the ongoing season, but Icardi’s signing should go a long way in changing that. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Mauro Icardi of FC Internazionale scores the second goal during the Serie A match betweenGenoa CFC and FC Internazionale at Stadio Luigi Ferraris on April 3, 2019 in Genoa, Italy. Photo: Getty[/caption] To Madrid and Zidane’s advantage, being knocked out of the title race on all fronts is somewhat a blessing in disguise, as it gives them additional time to plan for the future. But the 13-time European Champions will have to be clever with the way they go about their business in the transfer market, before it builds up more scar tissue against their name as a formidable force in the world of football.

Why is the US making a mountain out of the Masood Azhar molehill?

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The United States has introduced a United Nations Security Council (UNSC) resolution to blacklist Masood Azhar as an international terrorist. Azhar is the leader of Jaish-e-Mohammed (banned in Pakistan since 2002) and has been blamed by India for masterminding February’s Pulwama incident, even though no evidence has been produced which links Azhar to the incident. China has refused to list Azhar as an international terrorist after careful consideration of the definition of international terrorism according to international law. China has made this position absolutely clear and as such, it would appear that the US is looking to transform the UNSC into a place of high stakes geopolitical theatre, because China’s veto of the US resolution is inevitable. The US therefore is using the internationally immaterial issue of Azhar in order to provoke tensions between China and India at a time when the ruling Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) is already invoking blood-curdling Sinophobia in further attempts to rally the jingoist Hindutva vote. But this is not all that the US is doing. Washington is also provoking and in fact insulting Pakistan by suggesting that a local matter is worthy of wasting the UN’s time, even after one of the permanent members of the Security Council has made its position unambiguous. As if on cue, India’s jingoistic media kicked into high gear suggesting war against China. Meanwhile, members of the BJP and the Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh (RSS) continue to call for a boycotting of Chinese goods. When it comes to Pakistan however, America’s willingness to inflate the international importance of Azhar makes it clear that the US is willing to risk productive relations with Pakistan in order to both placate India and to goad India into an even more extreme position vis-a-vis China (not that the BJP needs much help in this respect). Although the US has admitted that Pakistan’s role in the Afghan peace process is crucial, beyond this, the US has clearly made its decision in terms of a long term strategy in South Asia. While some US diplomats will feign attempts at a balanced South Asia policy, the reality is that India is now a key US strategic partner. US diplomats at the UN will happily do India’s bidding, even over a matter as absurd as trying to convince the world that Azhar is an international terrorist when legal precedent says otherwise. Pakistan must adjust its own expectations accordingly. While it would be imprudent for Pakistan to provoke any superpower, the message that Washington is not so subtly sending is that when it comes to a superpower partner, China is the singular key to Pakistan’s prosperous future, while the US is becoming little more than a puppet master helping direct flagrant Indian aggression against China. This is all the more reason for Pakistan to take a more assertive role in the Afghan peace process. As the country most directly affected by Afghanistan’s prolonged status as a failed state, Pakistan has no excuse not to emerge as an international leader in driving forward an all-parties peace process. Any idea that Pakistan should merely shadow the US in respect of the peace process should now be put to rest, as it is clear that the US has India’s strategic desires at heart and that, by comparison, Pakistan’s security needs come a very distant second or even third. The reality Pakistan must now face is that whilst America’s priorities in the South Asia during the 80’s related to containing Afghanistan to the West and the Soviet Union to the North, today the US is squarely focused on provoking China and for this, India will remain a key ally of Washington. All that Pakistan must now do is acclimate itself to a new reality where China’s all-weather friendship will grow in stature and material importance while the US will be willing to insult, debase and ignore Pakistan as though the events of the 80’s never occurred. This post was originally published here. 

Knock knock! Annabelle is coming home and things are about to get real scary

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Following the Marvel path, The Conjuring universe has grown steadily over the last six years through both, the increasing returns that most films in the franchise have delivered and in stature through the critical acclaim that the first two Conjuring movies received. Now five movies in, the franchise is showing no signs of slowing down with a third Conjuring film already set for 2020. But before that, we’re getting another Annabelle movie. And this one promises to be much different than its predecessors. [caption id="attachment_81026" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: IMDb[/caption] Annabelle Comes Home, which will serve as the sixth film in the Conjuring franchise and the third Annabelle film, does not take the prequel route like Annabelle: Creation did. Unlike the first Annabelle, which was widely panned for being a rudderless and aimless production, this film shifts the focus directly towards the Warren family – the paranormal investigators played by Patrick Wilson and Vera Farmiga who served as the protagonists of the first two Conjuring films. [caption id="attachment_81027" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: IMDb[/caption] The first trailer, which came out recently, sprinkles a handful of jump-scares throughout its two and a half minute runtime and the film more or less appears to centre on an artefact room where the Warrens keep the demonic doll. However, soon enough the doll begins turning up in strange places and much to the surprise of the Warrens, so do the other artefacts. The weight of this is felt by the Warren’s 10-year-old daughter, Judy, and her friends who seem to be at the centre of the latest Conjuring film. [caption id="attachment_81024" align="alignnone" width="598"] Photo: IMDb[/caption] By all accounts, Annabelle Comes Home seems like a much more small-scale film as compared to its predecessors which were much more expansive in scope. And though the Warrens are back, they don’t seem to have a central role in the film in the same way as their daughter does. This is promising because it means that perhaps this time the focus will be on a tightly-constructed narrative, which is where horror films work best. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Screenshot[/caption] As evidenced by the trailer, it’s perhaps also safe to assume that this film won’t just be about the titular doll but will also focus on some of the other haunted artefacts in the Warren family’s possession which, if anything, may provide the producers with a few more ideas for some future spin-offs. In the context of this film though, it will undoubtedly add to the scares. This is something that producer James Wan has confirmed when he essentially described the film as being Night at the Museum with an evil doll because of the various haunted artefacts that will be activated in the film. [caption id="attachment_81031" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: IMDb[/caption] The good thing is that Annabelle Comes Home seems to channel all the elements that have made the Conjuring franchise such a big success, which provides the viewer with something to look forward to. After straying away from the central narrative and focusing on aimless origin stories, the franchise seems to have finally learned its lesson. With Annabelle Comes Home, the focus seems to have been shifted back towards the scares and, in a blatant but smart bit of fan-service, the filmmakers have brought back two of the franchise’s most beloved characters, even if it’s in a supporting capacity. That said, only time will tell if the latest installment in the Annabelle saga matches up to the Conjuring movies, which at present, stand head and shoulders above the other films in the franchise. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Screenshot[/caption] Annabelle Comes Home hits cinemas on June 28, 2019.
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